August 7, 2020

*** This hand was suggested by scottcrib
85-93*  ?
50%
33%
11%
0%
0%
0%
0%
0%
0%
Total votes: 207
JQT
4143 votes

Joined: October 2008

 
 
 
Friday 3:08 AM
We are Pone at Hole 85, and thus we are somewhat "on target" to barely reach our next 'par' Hole 96. So far, so good.

Meanwhile, the Dealer sits Three Holes 'shy' of this same target. With the right cards played in the right fashion, we might be able to reach the Finish Line *before* our Opponent, once we obtain the Next Deal as Dealer and hopefully can score our Three Counts.

The problem here however is that in order to meet our own positional objective, it appears that we probably have to Toss (5 6), an exceedingly risky discard. Otherwise, we might also try a 'hybrid' solution and Keep (6 7 8 9) and Toss (5 9). Hold that thought.

I think we can rule out Keep (5 6 7 8) and Toss (9 9), not so much because of the PAIR in the Enemy Crib, but because it begins with only Six Points for us instead of Eight Points.

Thus, I think Keep (6 7 8 9) and Toss (5 9), with Eleven VERY HELPFUL Cuts (666, 777, 888, 99) is probably the way to go today. I say "probably" because some aggressive players may wish to try Toss (5 6), and it would be difficult to fault such a decision.

But I believe we have at least as good, if not better, chances after Toss (5 9). And s-l-o-w-i-n-g d-o-w-n a game often gives us more options as to how we might out-play or out-smart our Opponent. Thus, this discard decision is perhaps a matter of style, and I tend to be a defensive player.

After the Jack Cut, the Dealer gets Two Holes for His Heels, and has Two Points (at least) in the Crib, placing her/him another Four Points closer to winning, making our job that much more difficult, especially since the Jack adds ZILCH to our own Hand.

I'll lead the 8 Card and play a balanced approach during the pegging, as we haven't lost just yet. That will probably however come later.
thelawnet says: 5678 scores at least 8, 6789 likewise. there is no way for 5678 to score 6.
Eolus619 says: as i said to thelawnet.... when i looked @ the hand my first thought was i need to turn this into a 3 more hand game ...fortunately , for the group’s benefit , you expanded on my single insight ! thx
SallyAnn3 says: I like that thought, Eolus. I have to start thinking like that more. Thanks :)
SallyAnn3 says: I like that thought, Eolus. I have to start thinking like that more. Thanks :)
SallyAnn3 says: Twice as much, it seems!
warquaker says: "Thus, this discard decision is perhaps a matter of style, and I tend to be a defensive player." I am very interested in the question of style in cribbage. In poker, there are four styles of play: loose passive, loose aggressive, tight passive and tight aggressive; with the aggressive styles taking the money. In tennis there are three styles of play: baseline, serve and volley and all court with all three styles having produced double digit grand slam winners. So what of cribbage? What choices do we have that are questions of style and not simply winning percentage play?
Eolus619 says: i am just a decent fishing camp cribbage player so i am not sure i should be the one tackling this question. however....what you call style most players would call strategy...being aggressive ( offense) or conservative ( defense) with discards and pegging based on current scores and who had first deal. These two approaches are applied in varying degrees and get implemented based on the board position of the two players....so you could implement either strategy multiple times during a game. Simply put..you have decided ,based on where you and opponent are to a CPZ , if you need points or need to prevent points scored by your opponent . Ras thinks pegging strategy ,based on CPZ is so important , he often repeats his approach 3 times in his comment. Today, Rob makes a very insightful point about a card to play in the pegging sequence . Hal almost always declares his pegging strategy in his daily comments based on CPZ positions . Here is a link to a discussion about pegging strategy that might be useful to you. If inclined ,you can follow other sub links in the article that expand on the subject. https://blog.cribbagepro.net/2012/11/offense-vs-defense-cribbage-strategy.html?m=1 by the way..in my opinion , the best advice ever given to a cribbage player came unintended... from the Cheshire Cat when speaking to Alice if you don’t know where you are going then any road will take you there
Mark6 says: “ decent fishing camp cribbage player “ Lol. Me exactly . Specifically George River Quebec , Salmon and Arctic Char
Eolus619 says: Mark...we are an “elite” group...in our own way
JQT says: One thing I tend to associate with "style" but is in fact I suppose merely being logical is that winning SOONER in Cribbage is often attractive to newer players; but if winning sooner means winning less often, then we need to develop more patience. Because if we can win more often by playing defensively, and thus perhaps adding an extra deal to a complex endgame, we should always do so. And so in these instances, it's merely a matter of discerning when it might pay to adopt such patience and employ a defensive posture. As to the hand summation: I make a habit of counting pre-cut points, so of course any Cut today will add to (5 6 7 8). I should have added to this comment that while (5 6 7 8) will *always* become at least Eight Points, that (6 7 8 9) has a much better chance of becoming a LARGER amount overall, and so this is why I did not like Toss (9 9), which in fact is similar 'over the board' to Toss (5 9). As a matter of "style" I think today's puzzle requires that we approach this in a BALANCED way, and I think (5 6 7 8) comes up 'short' in our own hand requirements. Thus, I think it is a choice between Toss (5 6) and Toss (5 9), and I would only estimate that Toss (9 9) is a "Third Place" horse in today's race. I always stress PATIENCE in Cribbage, and making such games last or extend to another deal in my experience often has meant the difference of whether I will go home with less money in my pocket than when I arrived, or whether I shall have "free gas money and free dinner" plus a 'little something extra' in my pocket for my patience. The concept of "time" is important in both Cribbage and in Chess, and I'm not referring to time as in a football game or even the Chess Clock: it is that element of what kind of posture we choose in an endgame during which defensive decisions can often extend a game to play out in our favor, or at least give us more opportunities to succeed. I have written quite a bit about this over the many years I have been posting here, to such an extent that it should even be possible to Google my initials and "Hand of the Day" and Cribbage and Defense and bring up any number of hits (or if you are adept at searching, use the 'site specific' parameter to hone in on my past ideas). Whether these ideas and themes are in fact correct or not is of course always open to speculation, but I do love to study Cribbage Endgames a LOT and all of their wonderful subtleties and nuances. Thanks ALL (above) for such engaging follow-up replies and ongoing advice, as I am always willing to learn more from others, whether seasoned or newer players; and as always in life, learning often comes most when we are trying to teach or help others, and in doing so, we can notice our own shortcomings and mistakes. - j q t -
warquaker says: JQT: It is fully my intention to go through every hand of the day that is extant and I am sure I will come across your ideas. If they are strong enough to drive your play then they are strong enough to be given my consideration.
warquaker says: Eulos619: Thanks for the additional link.
Eolus619 says: JQT...here , from the CHOD archive , is a worth while link to study where you make your point about BALANCE and Ras + Hal comment about defense https://www.dailycribbagehand.org/show.php?id=1660 And from the deep dark past in the cribbage forum archive in 2001...Hal makes a point about playing “safe” and surviving to win on first count next hand Your point about extending the game by one hand is well taken...to take a page from “March Madness” basketball tourney....the goal is to survive and advance http://www.cribbageforum.com/Ask2001_08a.htm
james500
3917 votes

Joined: June 2013

 
 
 
Friday 3:19 AM
Is 5-6 a price worth paying here? I'll risk it.
thelawnet
262 votes

Joined: January 2020

 
 
 
Friday 3:41 AM
dealer needs 28, whereas 26 is the average in two deals.

hence if we give him points we can expect him to win next time on his take

meanwhile we need 36. We canot do that this time and cannot hope to do it next time either unless we score, say, 20 here.

Even if we do, our foe might go out first.

Our best hand is very obviously 7899, which scores 10 with a2345jqk (31), 12 with 10 (4), 16 with 6 (3), 20 with 789 (8).

Next to that we can consider 6789, which still tosses a 5 to dealer, and tends to score 8, while reaching 16 with 6789.

We can quickly see that 6789 is horribly inferior as a hand to 7899 in that it puts us in a much weaker position with 789, and it still tosses 5 to dealer.

A slightly more defensive toss is 89, which pretty much gives us 7 points, and might escape with nothing in dealer's crib. If this were to happen we could be starting next hand at around 95* - 103.

Here we'd be positionally far short of winning next deal, but we can sort of min-max this as either:

hold 7899, get a 17% chance of 20 points, peg defensively in that case and then have about a 50/50 chance to win next time

or
hold 5679 or perhaps something else, hope that dealer gets fewer than 26 points in two deals such that he needs to peg more than 2 on his following deal, and then ourselves score 36 in 2 one hands and a deal.

Here that latter equation means that we need 10 here (from hand + pegs), hopefully more, which surely rules out the most defensive option 79. But we could consider 89, or possibly even 99 as candidates, given that the latter might have a more favourable distribution being a pair, remembering that if we have gone for the defensive option there's not really a difference between a 20 point and a 10 point crib, as we lose in both cases, so mean scores are misleading. What we DO need is a crib of about 4 points or less.

So considering that we are in any case no better than 1 in 4 to win from this position before the deal, we can't fret too much about losing plays, because we should expect to lose the great majority of the time, just perhaps increase our winning chance from say 15% to 20%, or similar.

When considered that way it's pretty tough to chose the double run as it seems that even if we hit our big cut, we still can't possibly win this deal, and a lot of the time that juicy 56 toss to dealer's crib will mean we don't get too show our cards next time.

So I'm tossing the 99 because I think it might leave dealer's crib fairly dry but still leaves us with a shot to win on our next pone hand.

After the J cut, I'm glad not to have tossed a 5 to dealer's hand.

The question of whether to lead the 7 or 8 is interesting here, statistically 7 is more likely to be led from a pair. Obviously if dealer holds a ten card then he might be more comfortable pairing a 7, but X7 is not a very likely hold.
Eolus619 says: when i looked @ the hand my first thought was i need to turn this into a 3 more hand game ...fortunately , for the group’s benefit , you expanded on my single insight ! thx
Rosemarie44
2052 votes

Joined: March 2016

 
 
 
Friday 3:43 AM
Start with 10 points in the hand with a possible 20 maximum .I'll take the chance.
mrob2199
1429 votes

Joined: February 2009

 
 
 
Friday 3:47 AM
Very good puzzle today Scott-We are going to need a lot of things to go our way to win this game-We need a decent hand to put ourselves in workable position for our next deal,but we also can’t fade a big opponent crib with dealer only 28 out-of the 3 realistic discards here-5-6,5-9 and 9-9 I feel that 9-9 has the best potential to be a 2 to 6 point crib-which we can live with here-JQT states earlier that 5678 is only 6 points so he prefers 6789,but we have to look at the total picture-EVERY cut will provide at least 2 points so in actuality you are keeping an 8 point hand minimum here-we will have to lead the 8 and hope the dealer doesn’t have middle cards-if the dealer plays a picture on it dump the 6 to make it 24 and not the 7 making it 25-this is a play I see many players make and they don’t realize that it could be costing them games-the most popular hand dealer could have here are 3 pictures and a 5 or 4 pictures-if he has the latter the pegging will come out the same but if he has the former you will only be outpegged 2-1 instead of 3-0 if you play the 7 on the second play-these little things are very important on 4th street
mrob2199 says: Obviously if the dealer has all pictures or 3 pictures and a 5 the Jack cut is probably fatal to us but we can hope it’s only a 12 point hand and not a 16 or 17
Eolus619 says: ahhhhhh. the subtle nuances of the sometime complex art of pegging...great tip ..thanks
scottcrib says: Thanks Rob.
Andy (muesli64)
2223 votes

Joined: August 2009

 
 
 
Friday 4:07 AM
5-9 unmatched seems least of the evils?
RubyTuesday
909 votes

Joined: January 2019

 
 
 
Friday 4:27 AM
I’m going to take the chance of a really good scoreby throwing 5 6.
dec
6352 votes

Joined: April 2008

 
 
 
Friday 4:39 AM
One again it matters more what they count with a lil more importance on getting to a desirable position here. Dumps the nines and go for that minimal non cut for all three hands here. lead the eight play off if possible. So my call is of a defensive nature here. dec
zeke76
1390 votes

Joined: August 2018

 
 
 
Friday 4:59 AM
Went defensive. Lawnet, mrob,, and dec explain the upside of this far better than I could.
Mark6
702 votes

Joined: June 2020

 
 
 
Friday 5:22 AM
Giving the Crib as little as I can
SallyAnn3
904 votes

Joined: March 2020

Friday 7:14 AM
Holding a possible 16, will gt the 2 points back with most cuts. 5-9 usually not too dangerous. Almost went with 9-9 as I've been taught not to fear it.
warquaker
238 votes

Joined: July 2020

 
 
 
Friday 7:35 AM
Grunch: untutored I could not see beyond discarding 56 and hoping for the best.
SallyAnn3 says: Welcome! This site is great for being tutored by some of the best players in the world. That's why I come here daily, and it has helped me a lot. Am grateful that I can get into their heads!
JRCeagle78 says: I agree with SallyAnn on the benefits of this site. You may even learn some beneficial pointers from players like myself, who IS NOT among the best players in the world. Your point of view on difficult hands may even help us as well.
Eolus619 says: warq......see my attempt to answer your question about style in JQT comment section
warquaker says: Eolus619: only just seen this I responded to you in the JQT comment section.
JRCeagle78
1054 votes

Joined: June 2016

 
 
 
Friday 8:11 AM
When looking at this hand, I had to decide which discard could do the least amount of damage. Any discard that included the 5 would in all probability be extremely risky.

I felt that the 9-9, even though it gives the dealer 2 points, is the safest way to go. Any middle card as starter will still give us a decent hand. I'll lead the 8 and try to peg cautiously. We definitely need the dealer to play defensive with an X card to our lead in order to limit the dealer's pegging.
Jazzselke
2583 votes

Joined: March 2009

 
 
 
Friday 8:14 AM
59 not the worst 5 combination to throw, and we're holding middle cards that could help it. Also would rather play the 6 from 6789 than leading from 5678, which is one of the worst hands to do so.
joekayak
1873 votes

Joined: May 2016

 
 
 
Friday 12:27 PM
I'm in the minority. But I'm with Rob. How about Hal??
Gougie00
5724 votes

Joined: March 2008

 
 
 
Friday 12:42 PM
I went 5-9, just in case an Ace or 2 is cut. 5-6 would have exploded, and 99 is too risky.
Coeurdelion
5589 votes

Joined: October 2007

 
 
 
Friday 2:20 PM
A few choices here - 7-8-9-9 (5-6), 6-7-8-9 (5-9C) and 5-6-7-8 (9-9):

7-8-9-9: 10pts - 7½pts (Schell: 7.47) = +2½pts

6-7-8-9: 8pts - 6¼pts (Schell: 6.15) = +1¾pts

5-6-7-8: 6pts - 6¼pts (Schell; 6.39) = -¼pt

Potential:

7-8-9-9: Improves with 666, 777, 888, 99, 10101010 = 15 cuts = 15/46 = 32.6% up to 16/17/20pts with 666, 777, 888, 99 = 11 cuts.

6-7-8-9: Improves with AAAA, 2222, 555, 666, 777, 888, 99, 10101010 = 26 cuts = 26/46 = 56.5% up to 16pt with 666, 777, 888, 999 = 12 cuts.

5-6-7-8: Improves with AAAA, 2222, 3333, 4444, 555, 666, 777, 888, 99 + 16xXs = 46 cuts = 46/46 = 100.0% up to 9/10/12/14pts with 2222, 4444, 555, 666, 777, 888, 99 = 22 cuts.

Position:

We need 11pts to reach 4th street positional hole but opponent is nearly there at 93pts. So I'll play Offense.

Pegging:

I think 5-6-7-8 will peg best playing Offense.

Summary:

7-8-9-9 has the best starting value by ¾pt over 6-7-8-9 and 2¾pt over 5-6-7-8. 5-6-7-8 is guaranteed improvement and has 22 cuts for 9-14pts. Will this catch up the 2¾pts? I think with the better pegging it will so I'll throw the pair of 9s.
HalscribCLX
5312 votes

Joined: February 2008

 
 
 
Friday 2:35 PM
At 85-93* playing an Defense strategy for the pegging the dynamic expected averages and Win/Loss %s are:

________________Dlr's
Defense__Hand___Pegs____Crib___Total___W2 %____W3 %
7-8-9-9___12.17+(-2.96)+(-7.17)=2.04____17.0____33.4
6-7-8-9D__10.41+(-2.61)+(-6.09)=1.71____12.5____33.2
5-6-7-8____9.61+(-2.96)+(-5.67)=0.98_____9.0____30.9

Defense______L2 %____L3 %
7-8-9-9_______43.5____58.3
6-7-8-9D______38.6____59.3
5-6-7-8_______39.6____62.4

7-8-9-9 is best for expected averages by 0.33pt and is very much best for Win %s. It is worst for Loss %s by a significant margin but even thou we're playing Defense for the pegging I'll select 5-6 to discard.

After the J cut I'll lead the 8 and play Defense:

Lead___________Dealer's Pegging Pts.
8____________________(-2.38)
7____________________(-2.42)
9____________________(-2.53)

warquaker says: Please could someone tell me what the legends W2 W3 (why no W1) L2 L3 (why no L1) mean? Much obliged.
Ras2829 says: Hi warquaker: The cribbot calculates win/loss % from present position. So L2% represent chances that we will lose two deals from now. L3% is loss frequency 3 deals from now. The points essnetial to win on the next deal are outside the realm of averages. So nothing is shown for L1. RAS thinks that's all there is to it. If there is more to the story, somebody else can fill in the blanks.
warquaker says: Ras2829: You answered the question asked. You should run for president. Many thanks.
Mark6
702 votes

Joined: June 2020

 
 
 
Friday 2:52 PM
The big Hitters split on the 3 hands today
Ras2829
5147 votes

Joined: November 2008

 
 
 
Friday 4:13 PM
Playing my position first, will choose def., def., def. need 10 points to reach 4th street CPZ (95-99). It's goodbye 5-6! The Jack cut is not a good omen giving dealer two points before a card is played. Not likely that dealer will have mid cards with my holding five of them. Play a defense pegging strategy, will break the three card sequence with the lead of the 8 and try to wiggle away from pegs. The 5-6 to opponent averages 6.865 on the 126 times have tossed and recorded on that side of the board. That's not a lot of samples although about .3 less than average shown by HalscribCLX. The average of all 91 discards to crib is 4.8. So the 5-6 average is two points over that and dealer is 2 holes short of 4th Street CPZ. So n/d has reasonable chance to pull this out. With the Jack cut, dealer has about 60/40 edge to win. Given that will likely be playing defense for the remainder of the game.